We left Ecuador ahead of schedule. Flew to Loja in southern Ecuador , and stayed one night instead of two. Power cuts in Ecuador didn´t help. Waiting aroud 2 hrs at bus station to book ticketsbecause of lack of power... wandering in unlit streets geting lost, a bit. Bus from Loja in Ecuador to Piura first major city in Peru . 8 hr bus trip . First part through incredible mountains- mountain passes in Ecuador. Then down to the desert. at the last stop in Ecuador the temperature had climbed to 40 degrees. Stopped overnight in Piura. Seeing incredible poverty on the way and fantastic fruit and rice growing . Piura centre city quite rich contrast to the areas outside the city. Decided to bypass Chiclayo and go straight to Trujillo, a big city in northern Peru. Centre of the city is beautiful with old and colourful colonial buildings
Booked hotel in Huanchaco 14 km north of city just past the airport. A Beach resort. Staying in the best hotel in town, with own swimming pool, and enclosed garden. Very relaxing. The town is in the desert.
The beach is fascinating. Traditional craft built with reeds are in daily use a s a fishing craft. By accident came across the reed beds , and the reed drying operation. got talking to a fisherman who explained the different types and sizes of reed used, ¨las madres¨ the long ones and ¨los hijos¨ the short ones used for different parts of the boat. These boats a genuine working fishing boats. Overall length is about 3 mts and about 1mt wide at the back They use a split bamboo 2 mt long ans the paddle . The oarsman- fisherman kneels while paddling . See pics above
//ªªªThor Hyerdal where are you now did the Kontiki sink in the end it was a boat made of these reedsºº ªª yes the keyboard is funnyªª . /// quality of photos not great because of a grain of sand BUT I found a shop in Trujillo , within hours had stripped it down , replace a damaged cog , cleaned it , and had it back in working order. What have we lost -- here they still believe in repairing things!!! ///
Next walking on the beach we saw the crabs- small pink- orange running around- then noticed that they and the seagulls were picking something from under the sand as the surf washed over , not sure what it was , but it was either turtle eggs or some sort of baby cuttlefish.
Will put up pics later
Food delicious fresh fruit,, fish causing ¨deposiciones liquidos¨ requiring toilet roll in back pocket but not too serious, the matter is under control!
Currentlythere are powercutsin Ecuador. Why? Notenough rain! We are dependantonhydro-electricpowerandthere has beenverylittle rain. Picturesonthepapersofdamswith no waterbehindthem. Securitywarnings are partofeverydaylifein Quito, butwhenthereis a blackoutputonyourchastitybelt, lockthedoorandcoveryourheadwiththeblankets. Apartfromthatthere are somegreatfoodshereandsomethatpushtheboundariesforwesterners .
Great foods in Quito
Cachos.. first go to the market or street vendor and buy a bag, say 1 kg, of white beetles. They are alive and crawling over each other. The are only available at the end of October , start of November, after heavy rain. The smell is strong, think of almond essence with an overtone of stewing rabbit. Next decapitate each and pluck off its wings. Soak in salted water for 24 hrs.. Strain. In a lightly oiled pan fry very hot for 5 min, add water and stew for 2 mins. Meanwhile prepare and roast “popcorn” . When water has evaporated serve with prepared corn. Eat with fingers. The flavour is nutty and the texture crunchy. It is a dish prized by the few and hated by many. Well worth the experience Moracho. Buy your moracho corn in the local corn supplier, (don’t confuse it with the 79 other types of corn available, particularly the moracho fed to chickens). Stew with an equal volume of milk and water. Add cinnamon and sugar to taste. Serve in a mug and hey presto! You have something that tastes like across between rice pudding and porridge, great for a cold morning in the Andes! Humitas. The best cooks prepare at home but the vulgar masses listen for the Humita woman’s car horn to honk, and buy from the cardboard box in the back of the van. What is it? A special maize flour flavoured with spices, and sometimes sugar, plenty of oil, pounded for hours on end , All wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed for hours. Quite tasty, eaten as a snack or the main part of the evening collation. But it is just another addition to the long list of carbohydrates. Colada Modada y Guagua de Pan This is a traditional food for All Saints/Souls day. The Morada refers to the colour—purple- It is a thick fruity” soup” made with dark fruits—blackberries, blackcurrants and others unknown. It is strained to takeout the seeds etc and fruit chunks added mainly pineapple(I think). It is served with Guagua de pan. Guagua is the qitchua word for baby. The bread is a plain bread shaped into the shapes of babies and decorated with a coloured “plastercine”. It is a very tasty warming supper dish. Don’t make the mistake of buying the bread shaped like camels, horses, llamas, etc, these are sold from the same stands but are purely decorative. I assume you just put them with the other junk in the house to collect dust Bread Bread Bread to the power of n. The bread shops ,(every 4th shop) outdo each other in advertising how many types of bread they have at 10 cents. Most of the bread is sweet in some manner. The frequency of bread and other carbohydrates does not help the digestive system—the less said the better. Cuy.. Guinea pig—I have not had the pleasure yet. But Janio , the 16 yr old in the house refuses to eat it on the grounds that he does not eat "rats"! Cuero , tripa.y pata de gallina In Santa Isabel, I declined the lunch of pig skin and tripe. Only once have I had the pleasure of Cuero the pig skin—all texture and fat and tripe(beef tripe) did appear on one dinner plate—a texture that Goodyear would be proud of.. If you are so inclined you can buy the cuero from the wandering vendors with the bag of cuero over the shoulder. 95% of soups provide an endearing surprise in the bottom of the soup plate—a hen’s foot. If you are unlucky and don´t get the hen´s foot some other unidentified offal will appear. All these things add flavour and if you can overcome your western sensibilities the soups can be quite nice.
Chainsaw man You have to be prepared for surprises in Quito—I already mentioned the man juggling the flaming torches in the middle of the traffic.--- -----Think a crowded Luas tram or a crowded tube in London -----the doors are closing –----- Man shouts----- –“ Wait wait Let me in” —---doors open man steps in holding a chainsaw aloft. Now live chickens and geese I accept are part of everyday life on the transport system, but chainsaws? Now is that normal or am I just over-sensitive? Why do the words Texas and massacre spring to mind?
Markets Sometimes you can judge children harshly. Maria is the worst behaved child in the market in Sangolqui. When the others are singing she shouts, when the others are colouring she throws the ball. If you hug her, (no that is not against the law!), you feel a skeleton. As I was bringing Maria back to her market stall Anita, the social worker , told me the story.—She effectively has no parents, they are both drug addicts, and she comes to work in the market with her granny. Maria is seven with the body of a small four-year old. But it’s not all doom and gloom. Danny, who runs the activities for the children in the market , is fantastic with the kids, not simply amusing them but providing learning through play,eg a pre-writing skill –exact manipulation with the finger and thumb—stringing pasta pieces – Jonathan’s joy when he succeeded in stringing two pasta pieces. (The names have been changed to protect the innocent) In the markets and in the homework club we weighed and measured all the children. 80% are under weight for their age. (Now the standard we compared to may not be totally appropriate for Ecuador, but it shows the general trend) That’s the easy part—doing something about it is the hard part. At the same time many of the children are sucking candy the time, but not proper nutrition, yet there is such a wealth of fruit and veg in the markets. You can see it in the children, so many are small and puny.
Homework Club The homework club in Santa Isabel has many challenges but it too has its lighter moments. Doing the “times tables” with a group I asked Carlos (he is bright at everything) to be the teacher and lead the rest through one of the tables. He not only led them through one of the tables but put on an act of being an old and cranky teacher, lifting the whole exercise to the level of fun. I am no educationalist but some of the methods employed I think may not be good for the child’s self confidence. – There is a multiplication to be done on the board, say 784x49,-- the teacher runs a game of chance - an “eenie, meenie, minie, moe” –type –so some unfortunate has to do the sum on the blackboard in front of his or her peers, who can be unkind at times. For me memories of failure doing a geometry theorem on the blackboard for Fr. Scully flooded back. . Frequently the process of doing homework seems quite futile. Today Domingo had about fifteen statements such as: + + (the formula wont reproduce here) but it is like the square root of ((x-1)squared /36 )+square root of((x+3)squared /25 ) to reduce to the simplest form, I’m sure such an exercise has its value, but not when the child doesn’t know the first thing about square roots or squaring functions, but the priority was to get fifteen correct answers on the page so that he wouldn’t get a bad mark, so his sister and another person worked furiously so he could copy down the solutions.. Frequently the English exercises are approached in the same manner—just get the answer on the on the page, regardless of understanding or ability to actually say the sentence. There seems to be no attempt in the English teaching to develop oral ability. We try do some teaching through simple songs—all suggestions welcome of songs and simple activities/games to teach English ages 6 to 12 with practically nil oral ability in Englosh.
9 Oct 2009 Capilla del Hombre Oswaldo Guayasamin is Ecuador’s most famous artist. He was from an ordinary market family, but spent his time drawing. One of the Rockefellers bought a work in the market ,this was not a disadvantage. He spent a lot of his life outside Ecuador, much in Cuba. There are many photos of him and Fidel. Much of his work is about the suffering of the poor of S America, particularly the indigenous peoples. The best known and most published works feature faces and hands . The faces are frequently distorted with pleading, exaggerated but haunting eyes and begging boney hands. Many also show a great tenderness despite the poverty. Every tourist shop and stall has copies of his best known works many of which are in the Capilla. He designed and built the Capilla in the grounds of his house in Bellavista in northern Quito overlooking the city and with views over to Volcan Pichincha. He also has umpteen paintings of the volcano which dominates Quito. La Capilla is about 50x50mt on two floors, with central dome.The entrance hall is dominated by his painting , in eight panels ,of The Mutilated—in remembrance of the Spanish Civil War. Another wall is devoted to his famous drawings of the poor. Downstairs there are two sculptures paying homage to the Inca traditions and another major oeuvre the “condor and the bull”. One quote on the wall is “ No llore porque no tenÍa zapatos hasta que vi un niño que no tenÍa pie” (Hope I have my Spanish correct) Don’t cry because you hadn’t shoes when you see a child who had no feet It was well worth the visit ,if only to see the drawings of the downtrodden—powerful,moving (Mind you the people there were well heeled!)
10 Oct 09 Otavalo Market As the condor flies Otavalo is about 75 miles from Quito. I left my house at 10.00 and arrived by bus at 14.00. Barrio Villaflora to La Marin bus station, metrobus to La Ofelia bus station in the north of the city , bus to Carcelen Alto interprovincial bus station still in northern Quito then two hour bus journey to Otavalo (having paid my $0.25 bus station tax and fare of $2.00). Journey is through the mountains with farming land in the valleys. On the way you can see several snow-clad volcanoes. In Otavalo you arrive at the normal chaotic bus station . Walk about 10 mins into the city centre, but hey! The footpaths are not all broken, they are tiled and relatively smooth, unlike Quito. You come to a street, with street furniture, benches, decorated lampposts and they are not vandalized and full of graffiti—what’s going on? Then you come to the market. The area is probably about the size of St Stephen’s green . All the streets leading to the central market are also full of stalls. There is no traffic, no buses belching black fumes, no camionets honking, no music blaring from every second stall, on the approach streets all the stalls are numbered and constructed in a standard, regulated manner---- This can’t be Ecuador. The stallholders, mostly women , 90% of whom are in traditional costume, from the youngest to the oldest. See photographs. Many of the men are in part of their costume—beige felt hat, blue poncho, mid calf white pants and sandals. Few have the poncho, but you do see it. Available in the stalls are; woven tapestries showing stylized Andean scenes, ponchos, knitwear of every kind, traditional costume particularly for the ladies, musical instruments many flutes and pipes of pan, one zillion copies of Guayasamin pictures, and another school of naive native art plus the cottage by the stream school, and also some very different original art. Then there are knick-knacks, belts, woven bags, woolly alpaca toys. There are one or two stalls with different, original clothing. When you have had your fill of the craft market there is the food market with fruit & veg known and unknown and the butchers’ shops with the meat hanging outside . There is an amazing variety of grains, milled and unmilled—maize comes in so many shapes, sizes and colours and the great thing about it is that you can have maize in some form at every meal, provided of course that you have rice and potatoes on the same plate! I missed the animal market ,but just got the tail end where there were several cages of pups for sale . They looked to be a couple of weeks old at most. Compared to Quito I felt safe in Otavalo, I still had all the vitals tightly secured. And they all went home tired but happy.
11 Oct09 Mitad del Mundo. Ecuador gets its name from the ………….. yes you guessed it. In 1736 Charles-Marie de La Condamine made his measurements here showing where the equatorial line was. His measurements also gave rise to the metric system. (Thank you Lonely Planet). What’s there—a dirty great monument –a line in the ground –several scientific exhibits- a lot of tourist shops,( a bit like Bunratty on the equator) –a cold wind coming down from a nearby volcano—dust in the air from the nearby quarries. There is however a great display of folkloric dance and some lovely Ecuadorian music. Worth the visit? Just about, but takes a lot of work to get there from southern Quito, the accident on the motorway didn’t help. When the carriageway going north was blocked all traffic proceeded to the wrong side preventing anything from moving in any direction, and people got out of every car and bus to see the blood
To day is a national holiday, the freedom of the city of Guaquil in the south 9 October, so there are streets named 9 October. Ther are also streets named-- 18 Dec, 10 Aug, 24 May and any other random date you wish to mention. I think they are mostly commerating the liberation, from the Spanish, of each city in the country. The fight for freedom started in earnest in 1809 and continued until 1822 when Simon Bolivar added his weight to the freedom fight. The streets are named also after all the heros of the fight for independence, Mariscal Sucre, Olmeada, Montafur etc etc. The other big event is Ecuador vs Paraguay in a World Cup qualifier to morrow,, and the tension is building up( May also be part of the reason for bringing the army onto the streets!) The government has put in place measures to allow the army take to the streets to combat crime! I have only seen the army once in action at a roadblock, but the reality of street crime has come a little closer to one of our group.
In the UBECI world yesterday I was giving the kids in St Isabel school an introduction to Ireland. Questions.. "is it in Ney york? " "is it in Africa" etc, but I think they enjoyed it and perhaps even now know it is in Europe, wherever that is-- oh yes that´s in Spain because Tio Miguel is there-- Many , many have relations in Spain.
Measuring height and weight of all children. Their BMI for 80% is below the norm, (but is the norm appropriate for Ecuador?). Next is to move to nutrition. The diet here for the children is a combination of carbohydrates and ice cream or other sweet pacifiers.
The Trole can be amazingly crowded, up very close and very personal, but all the same there is almost never a smell of BO. In the streets however there is regularly a waft of urine. The gentlemen of Ecuador have no qualms about peeing in public, The stray dogs have even fewer qualms about their functions, both digestive and amorous. Even the dogs are exploited-- you regularly see people holding cute little puppies for sale in the street "Mami buy me a puppy -- I want to cuddle him " In the markets we are now going to some of the mothers talking about "la gripe" swine flu , with the help of the UBECI staff, and talking about disinfecting their hands with alcohol, which UBECI supplies , when they can´t get to a place where there is water and soap. It´s a delicate balance to avoid being patronising at the same time as getting a hygiene message across. Some of these ladies leave their house at 5.00am and dont´t get back till 10.00 pm. I have 4 particular ladies to talk to each Thursday in Sangoiqui (spelling?) market, all with the help of UBECI staff.
This afternoon I went with Danny, one of the UBECI staff, searching for particular chicos who sell candy or mandarins near one shopping centre. Didn´t find them so went to another Centro Commercial where we sat on the entrance steps and played Xs and Os , then Chinese sticks with three shoe shine boys. Gave them an hour of light relief f from their daily grind. This is a new programme started three weeks ago with these child labourers. Today was the first time they brought a gringo along. When I meet such kids in a park or plaza I recoil and dismiss instantly for fear I´ll be robbed , mugged, infected, etc But when I sat with them, Juan-Carlos, Luis and Javier they are ordinary kids who enjoy playing, yes their hands are black, yes their tracksuit and jumpers are stained and old and torn, but they are children between 8 and 12 . (Could only understand about every 100th word , but so what?)
Hey! Quito is not so bad on a warm Sunday morning. First in Plaza Grande where there was music and dancing local bands & musicians. Sat night wasn`t quite so pleasant-- a political meeting going on. Poster of about 8 former presidents with some message about they had sold out the people. The speakers were getting very agitated as was the audience who were shouting and heclkling. Don`t know who was pro or anti the current president but he was the subject of discussion. Apparently there is some unrest at the moment and a lot of demonstrations,so Eileen told me. Some teachers are on strike. Back to to-day What also helps a lot is that every second Sunday the main streets are closed to traffic and opened for cyclists--makes life so much nicer--no pollution, atmospheric or noise. On the recommendation of Rosi, the house mami, went to Museo del Agua. Now that dosen`t sound too exciting, but it was very good. I t is high over the city so first there are great views. Looking down it all seems so peaceful and quiet, you can`t see the vendors, beggars, the child labour,either selling sweets or shining shoes, the unease that a gringo feels a lot of the time disappears. The Museo del Agua, which I didn`t see in guidebooks, is an exhibition and interactive discussion about the effects of global warming on the glaciers , and how eg Cotopaxi`s glaciers have shrunk. At the end there is a water show which starts with a rain dance and then includes the audience which later runs under water jets, fountains etc, all good fun, despite getting wet.
Later I sank to the depths-- In the new town I went into Mc Donalds for a coffee!!!--which I must say was the best coffee I have had in Quito-- and sat for an hour studying reflexive verbs while the 4x4`s drew up for the children`s parties, not infrequently with overweight children--another side of Quito.
After that was too late for the Museo del Banco Central so I walked along by exhibition of art on railings of El Ejido, a big city park. Some of the art was of the "cottage by the stream" school, others were apres Guayasamin and another very colourful local naive school. Other themes came through strongly, the symbols and icons of Inca & indigenous art, some beautiful abstractions of local scenes, markets, vendors, much quite unlike anything I have ever seen, all media represented--well worth the hour I spent there.
Then back the to reality of Quito in the Trole-- one, of a group of young men of afro-Ecuadorian origin, seemed to brush his hand too frequently against my pockets, however there was nothing of value for him to find, only toilet paper. Speaking of which, I still find it hard to accept that one should not put toilet paper into the toilet, but into the basket provided.
Met the Irish nun this morning . Eileen Quirke of the Presentation sisters, from Kerry. (her brother is XXX Quirke who lives in Delwood Castleknock former Garda Inspector in Kevin St Garda Station) I had arranged to meet her at an nearby shopping centre, but I was across the road where the buses pull in. She got off a bus about 100 Yds away but you could spot the gringo at that distance! She hasn´t lost her Kerry accent. Had a pleasant chat with her for and hour plus . She is working primarily for the church training cathecists , preparing children for communion & confirmation . She had some insights in to Ecuador, and particularly family life and behaviour and problems. She´d confirm some of the views about family life that UBECI tries to address. She originally come out here in ´88, also had some suggestions of places to go. Will meet her again in a couple of weeks. Unlike Sarah as a primary teacher, I don´t have the pleasure of cleaning bums, but instead many snotty noses, and in a way what is worst-- many kids in the markets with burnt faces-- burnt from the sun and the wind. The process at the market school is when the kids arrive they first wash hands & face then sometimes one of the Ecuadorian organisers puts cream on their faces. I am learning some nursery rhymes-- one is like "I´m a little teapot. " another is to the air of Frere Jacques You would all love the dancing. Salsa.. meringe? and many others --can´t remember names- - and yes i have at least two left feet-- only one of the dances could i make any fist of.. There is a dance class on Tuesdays in the gym attached to the house, which starts and finishes with warm up/down exercises. The son of the house I am in went to Indiana university two weeks ago with a local dance troupe doing Ecuadorian & Bolivian dances at some congress. The cost of the dance class is $1 for the hour!!
If you feel like sending a post card --this is the address, takes about 10 days for one to arrive--but the kids might enjoy them! and the stamps!.
Rosi Asimbaya yRoberto Basantes Ricardo Jaramillo S8-129 y Pasaje Solomớn Cardenas Ciudadela Santa Ana, Quito Tel: 593 (0)2 2647775 Mobile 098 747319 (Rosi)
The family is a loving, interested, educated family. Rosi, Roberto & two sons. Rosi provides a cooked breakfast, and a very big lunch and in the evening a light supper of coffee/tea/juice and some form of bread, perhaps with fruit. Rosi & Roberto work very hard, they manufacture electric showerheads with an inbuilt water heater on the premises. The manufacturing process includes using molten aluminum poured into moulds. This part of the operation takes place beside the washing machine and involves a barrel, some sand, a gas cylinder, a match, temperatures of 700 degrees, jeans, trainers and a tee shirt. Repeat (suspend all standards etc) The internal electrical parts are assembled in the living room by Rosi, further unseen manufacturing operations take place upstairs in Pilar’s living quarters with Pilar’s help. Pilar is Roberto’s sister. The word sister here may mean step sister because of distinctly different the skin tones. Pilar’s other job is selling jugo (real fruit juice) in the mornings in the local park. The living accommodation has other unique features for example the shower can provide hot water from a locally manufactured showerhead and strangely the power source is external as the wiring comes in through the window. The manner in which it is connected to the showerhead …… suspend all etc.
the house_____I have not figured out the topography of the building yet!
St Isabel School is about one hour by bus from Villaflora (Quito) where I live. I come out here on Tuesday and Friday mornings and every afternoon except some Mondays. St Isabel is first a separate barrio (district-townland) outside Quito. One of the good things about it is that it is out in the country, well part of the ribbon development, but when you get to the school it is off the main road and sometimes there is even silence !!The school operates Tuesday and Friday 0900 to 1100 and every afternoon 1400 to 1630. Children from about 5yrs to about 12 / 13 come here either before school (0900 to 1100) or after for help with their homework. The school takes place in a partially completed house,which could be nice if it were finished no doors, except external, no plaster, no internal finishing of any kind. the loo is in place, but privacy is provided by a curtain on a piece of string. The desks are fixed , child sized desks with desk and chair integrated,(reminds me of old desks which some of us will remember from when we were in school) so they are difficult for an adult to sit on. Most of the homework seems to be either arithmetic, or, for even quite old children, handwriting. I sometimes am assigned to teach English. the environment is not conducive to good teaching , with 10 kids in the "front room" half of whom are doing maths, others are talking & I am trying to get across the subtleties of "I am" vs "I'm" When i am here for the full Day have a lot of time to fill between 1100 and 1400--- hence this e mail.
Am meeting Eileen , the nun, from ?? Tipp? Cork? somewhere south -at any rate! on Sat morning. Love to all, Joe.
From Left Brendan Mc Inerney , a true blue Aussi traveller, Danielle , a volunteer from London, Me, Jessi a school counsellor and volunteer from LA. Note we are drinkin g water
Lovely weather this morning. Most mornings are bright and sunny and it clouds up a bit in the afternoons evenings. What I miss is silence! Everywhere, music, traffic people, tv, street vendors, even in the nearby park still noise, as for Atacame, the beach resort , it achieved the reserved sin of noise.
1 Sept 2009 Outside someone is playing local flute, sounds a bit like a tin whistle, a simple tune, this I the first time I heard it, what I usually hear is the devil’s music from the nearby gym which opens at 0600. At the moment I am sitting in bed at 10 pm typing on Kathleen Mary Hall’s PC. She &other volunteers have gone to Mariscal Sucre, otherwise known as gringolandia, to dance and drink the night away. Mariscal is part of the newtown in the north of Quito, where all the gringos and gringo companies flock because they need the trappings of modernity. Just below it is oldtown which has the trappings of the Spanish heritage , the government, the churches. Above it all La Virgen reigns down her blessings from the hill known as El Panecillo (the little bread loaf). From the south of El Panecillo all we can see is Virgen’s behind and the south has all the trappings a developing country,(suspend all standards ye who enter here) unregulated building, horrendous footpaths, buses billowing black smoke giving world class pollution, street traders in traditional/quasi traditional costume mostly selling food designed to gives the gringos the galloping bog rots, umpteen phone shops and lots of security personnel. The family with whom I am staying is a loving, interested, educated family. Rosi, Roberto & two sons. Rosi provides a cooked breakfast, and a very big lunch and in the evening a light supper of coffee/tea/juice and some form of bread, perhaps with fruit. Rosi & Roberto work very hard, they manufacture electric showerheads with an inbuilt water heater on the premises. The manufacturing process includes using molten aluminum poured into moulds. This part of the operation takes place beside the washing machine and involves a barrel, some sand, a gas cylinder, a match, temperatures of 700 degrees, jeans, trainers and a tee shirt. Repeat (suspend all standards etc) The internal electrical parts are assembled in the living room by Rosi, further unseen manufacturing operations take place upstairs in Pilar’s living quarters with Pilar’s help. Pilar is Roberto’s sister. The word sister here may mean step sister because of distinctly different the skin tones. Pilar’s other job is selling jugo (real fruit juice) in the mornings in the local park. The living accommodation has other unique features for example the shower can provide hot water from a locally manufactured showerhead and strangely the power source is external as the wiring comes in through the window. The manner in which it is connected to the showerhead …… suspend all etc. I have not figured out the topography of the building yet Oh my god , the buses----. There is an electric trolly-bus system which seems very organized running on dedicated roads, haven’t had the pleasure yet. The other buses----no numbering system—you must read the multiple destinations pasted to the windscreen. However to help you a gentleman hangs out the door and shouts at persons on the footpath the destinations of the bus. This is a necessary part of the process since there are no bus stops, and so you hail and board the bus at any point on its route and similarly you may alight wherever you wish. Gringos do find the system a tad trying, but at 25cents a trip what complaints can a gringo have? (Yes the word gringo is used quite a lot) The weather--- nothing too remarkable except for the potential for sunburn/sunstroke. We are on the equator up at 2850 metres and have clear skies from early morning, so far it clouds up a bid in the pm and is somewhat chilly in the evening. I need a hat & a high factor sunblock. The mountains yes pretty high , particularly to the east and on day I got a glimpse of a snow-capped volcano to the north. The projects—next installment
The Markets The theory . The families who run the stalls are from certain social class. I am told that 80% of them are dysfunctional in one way or another, Battered wives, and every other sort of abuse , yes every other abuse. The children must work in the markets and often are not permitted to go to school because of the loss of earnings that would cause. The children are used for selling things. They get sympathy and therefore sales so why should they go to school? In their lives they only see adults as people who give orders ,& don´t listen. The role of the mother is often one of protecting their precious market space and is “muy fuerte” with other people and passes this attitude on to the kids. The father, if any, is one who abuses, or beats. The children don’t see adults in any other way. UBECI´s idea is to give the kids time and space. To let them see adults who act in a different way— who will listen who will play who will set boundaries without being abusive . Perhaps the alternative view of adults and how they behave may rub off in the next generation . It is taking a long term view to make a small difference in some chid´s life. It is not a quick fix, can´t change the whole social system, but perhaps give a little joy. The process 8.40 get bus to market arrive anytime from 9.30 to 10.30 depending on how far away the market is. Set up an area, usually just outside the main market area. Big rubber mats on the ground. The kids arrive in dribs & drabs. Ages 2-10 , in total up to 25. There are two basins with water & soap.. First thing wash hands & face. Then choose colouring , or playing games, singing songs , action songs, “ learning English” . Duration 2 Hours Role of Volunteers There is a local leader , Danny. Mostly it is simply to sit down and let the kids come to you., and boy do they come. Within minutes you have 2,3 or more crawling over you, wanting stories read, songs sung, help with colouring. I cant get Narcissa out of my head. 8/9 yrs old not particularly beautiful. She did not participate, just lay with her head on a a blanket or something. When I asked her name she would not say. Eventually after 15 mins came over and whispered her name in my ear and resumed her position on the ground. She was a sad girl. But obviously she got something from being there. May of the kids arrive carrying a little brother or sister on their back. 50% of kids are snotty nosed and dirty, and it takes some time to be able to ignore that . They are not all like Narcissa mostly lively joyful kids, some are absolute stunners. At the end of the two hours the volunteers deliver the children back to their mother´s stall. , so you end up being lead by 4 5yr olds around the market . They know exactly where the mother is, the volunteer is lost. The parents react in different ways to the return of the children,, mostly all smiles and thanks, some sullen giving a attitude of resentment. But whatever happens either in the 2 hours or later you just have to accept it .
Then clear up get bus back and back in Quito by about 12.30 or maybe later . Lunch and ready for Spanish lesson at 1400. Timetable will be different later, because there is another enterprise w hich is a “homework club” Haven´t been there yet. And yes you do need a shower afterwards and pray you have not picked up anything else!!
Next will tell you about weekend in Mindo. (You need to get out of Quito . My only equivalent experience is that it is across between Bangkok and Tunis city, takes a while to get into its way of working.
Went to Atacama Saturday´/ Sunday returned Monday. It is a beach resort. 7 hour journey by bus from Quito. Slight trauma for one of volunteers night before departure, which caused her not to come. In taxi with son of the house-- dispute over taxi fare-- She got out-- son of the house driven away taken out of taxi beaten up and robbed-- next day both spent day going to various police stations-- However arrived Atacama 4.00 pm Swam in Pacific Ocean for first time. . Town full for weekend Sat Night. Town full of Put- Puts (motorbike with cabin for passengers), and potholes , which if you drove into one, you would lose a wheel and probably your suspension. Hostel described in guide book as looking like a pile of driftwood, well yes and inside was quite basic wit showers "natural" ie no hot water--bunk beds-- football continually on the television, and as the Ecuadorian League has just started , big crowd gathered to watch, watching requires at least one bottle of rum . The Ecuadorians either drink or do not drink, but when they drink they drink a lot. As it was Sat night bars open toll 4.00 complete with the devil´s music, Ecuadorian style,. In bed circa 12.00 but music from across the street made it impossible to sleep., When it eventually died down the room next door started their Karaoke machine and had a karaoke competition for two hours, By 6.00 things got quiet , except for the rooster in the backyard.
Sunday was families on beach, 99.9% Ecuadorian, the richer ones arriving in their 4x4´s, most by bus & put-put. Sun evening v quiet . but always the fears that go along with being the 0.1% gringo, and therefore rich and good target Journey back long & boring, first through coastal jungle plains, then gradually up to cloud forest level with much rain. I expected to arrive in to Quito newtown, but in fact arrived into Quito south, very south, into a beautiful, well constructed and organised bus station where I eventually figured out hoe to get to Villa Flora, my local trolley stop.
Am now out in St Isabel barrio where there is as school, both pre-school and after school "clubs", some start@ 7.00 others start @14.00. Currently on Lunch break----11.00 to 14.00 a lot of time to fill in the middle of nowhere. an hours busride from Quito.
Up 6.30 Sat 4th Sep 09. Met other volunteer at organisation’s office (the air is clear and breathable at this time of the morning, but come 09.00 you need a mask )15 min bus ride to another bus station, then Metro Bus to another interprovincial & international bus station. (the Metro bus runs in dedicated bus streets) Journey of almost an hour past airport in north of city.
In bus station booked tickets for 9.20 bus to Mindo.Bus on time. Took 45 min to get out of Quito into the countryside. Passed Mitad del Mondo (equator site, monument and tourist traps where equator first marked) and a nice quarry which gave a cloud of dust in the air for about 2 miles , till we got over a pass and eventually into forested area. It was one non-stop set of S bends which did not deter other drivers from passing. Up hill and down dale we hit Mindo @ 11.10.
Mindo is one street about 350 meters long with a plaza at the end. First find Casa Cecelia (x Lonely Planet). 250 mts off main street up dirt track. Cecilia was delighted to see us. The notice inside the door required us to take off our shoes upon entering. House and flooring of local hardwood, mahogany or some such. Floors kind of polished , makes sense to go around in stocking feet. Room for 4 upstairs through a landing area with two hammocks, no walls everything open to elements, but they are 35/37 degrees & v humid. Bedroom also open with mosquito nets.The door tied with a chord, to prevent intruders, and access also afforded by the trapdoor leading back down to reception.In the garden humming bird feeders in constant use and El Rio Mindo running through property.
Lunch in local Mexican then went canopy zipping. Canopy zipping was 1.5 km outside town uphill in heat & humidity. Canopy zipping is travelling through and over the canopy of the forest in a harness which runs on a hawser secured to rocks and in some cases to trees. Over a period of about 2 hours you have 12 separate runs travelling about 3.5 km in all looking down on the canopy. The more adventurous participants did some of the runs upside down & other unspeakable poses. I simply hung on, but wasn’t really scared. Two people had to give up --- altitude exercise & motion made them sick. What made me sick was my own smell hot sweaty and sticky, I was not alone, everyone’s sweat glands were working overtime.
A post zipping beer in the town watching Ecuador v Columbia in a World Cup qualifier…… and next thing Ecuador score----- “Whoopee” I shout – to be greeted with stony silence all round.----The team wearing yellow scoredEcuador’s colours – unfortunatelyboth teams wear very similar colours and Columbia, being the home team , were wearing yellow—Ecuador were wearing navy blue that day.
After the match the fiesta del Virgen de Quito commenced.First Mass—this required that all the seating in church be brought out onto the street, which duly happened over an hour. Mass took place with the altar at the door of the church and much clapping and singing under the cross of blue neon lights above the church.
We ate in the designed –for –gringo restaurant after which we joined the dancing & music near the plaza. The festivities were enlivened by what I was assured was vino.This liquid was served in used plastic bottles. The camerera took a ladle fullof boiling liquid from the pot on her stove and poured it into the bottle.The boiling liquid consisted of a syrup with pineapple and other materials. I believe the plastic bottles were pre-charged with some form of local grappa, potin or other hooch.It was the nose that gave it away. Three quarters of the bottle of witches brew was donated to the shrubbery in the plaza. The music was everything you would expect. Even across the bridge at the other end of town you had to shout to be heard.
I retired early, 11.30, and slept soundly . At about 5.00 awoke with an astounding headache. I attribute it mainly to the exercise at altitude,but the tablespoon of brew didn’t help. Sunday morning after a fantastic breakfast from Cecelia, eaten by the river with the humming birds hovering, booked horse riding through the forest for 11.30.Come the time we are asked to postpone until 2.00. We agree and hang around, have lunch in one of the many half finished buildings.About 1.00 we notice a lot of activity with horses, including one rider who has his horse fall on his side, the rider lies between the horse’s legs and is given a beer while lying prone. The horse arises another person runs from behind and jumps into the saddle then the original rider runs from behind and jumps on behind the saddle facing backwards, all to thunderous applause.
(For the benefit of Mr Kite there will be a show tonight in Mindolene.Here you can expect only the surreal – At one of Quito’s major intersections a clown stands in the traffic juggling flaming torches. We live such boring lives in Europe).
Come 2.00 we aretold that all the horses are engaged in the fiesta activities. The current fiesta activity is :
·Rope across street at the height of horse rider’s head
·Attached to rope are ribbons with a small ring on end
·Horse rider has a biro sized stick with which must pick a ribbon from the rope.
·Rider gallops 50 meters on street, downhill, attempts to pick ring with stick
·Rider stops horse 15 meters afret rope
Since the horses are engaged we are given the option of participating in the equine games. The decision to opt to walk to the nearby cascade was not difficult.
Bus at 6.00 pm. We got back to Quito, tired but happy.
