Quito by night

This is Grand Plaza Sat night -- look quite peaceful on the outside you can´t see the hassel going on all around, but has it´s own charm

Spending a Sunday in Quito

Hey! Quito is not so bad on a warm Sunday morning. First in Plaza Grande where there was music and dancing local bands & musicians. Sat night wasn`t quite so pleasant-- a political meeting going on. Poster of about 8 former presidents with some message about they had sold out the people. The speakers were getting very agitated as was the audience who were shouting and heclkling. Don`t know who was pro or anti the current president but he was the subject of discussion. Apparently there is some unrest at the moment and a lot of demonstrations,so Eileen told me. Some teachers are on strike.
Back to to-day What also helps a lot is that every second Sunday the main streets are closed to traffic and opened for cyclists--makes life so much nicer--no pollution, atmospheric or noise.
On the recommendation of Rosi, the house mami, went to Museo del Agua. Now that dosen`t sound too exciting, but it was very good. I t is high over the city so first there are great views. Looking down it all seems so peaceful and quiet, you can`t see the vendors, beggars, the child labour,either selling sweets or shining shoes, the unease that a gringo feels a lot of the time disappears.
The Museo del Agua, which I didn`t see in guidebooks, is an exhibition and interactive discussion about the effects of global warming on the glaciers , and how eg Cotopaxi`s glaciers have shrunk. At the end there is a water show which starts with a rain dance and then includes the audience which later runs under water jets, fountains etc, all good fun, despite getting wet.

Later I sank to the depths-- In the new town I went into Mc Donalds for a coffee!!!--which I must say was the best coffee I have had in Quito-- and sat for an hour studying reflexive verbs while the 4x4`s drew up for the children`s parties, not infrequently with overweight children--another side of Quito.

After that was too late for the Museo del Banco Central so I walked along by exhibition of art on railings of El Ejido, a big city park. Some of the art was of the "cottage by the stream" school, others were apres Guayasamin and another very colourful local naive school. Other themes came through strongly, the symbols and icons of Inca & indigenous art, some beautiful abstractions of local scenes, markets, vendors, much quite unlike anything I have ever seen, all media represented--well worth the hour I spent there.

Then back the to reality of Quito in the Trole-- one, of a group of young men of afro-Ecuadorian origin, seemed to brush his hand too frequently against my pockets, however there was nothing of value for him to find, only toilet paper. Speaking of which, I still find it hard to accept that one should not put toilet paper into the toilet, but into the basket provided.

Meeting Sr Eileen

Met the Irish nun this morning . Eileen Quirke of the Presentation sisters, from Kerry. (her brother is XXX Quirke who lives in Delwood Castleknock former Garda Inspector in Kevin St Garda Station) I had arranged to meet her at an nearby shopping centre, but I was across the road where the buses pull in. She got off a bus about 100 Yds away but you could spot the gringo at that distance! She hasn´t lost her Kerry accent. Had a pleasant chat with her for and hour plus . She is working primarily for the church training cathecists , preparing children for communion & confirmation . She had some insights in to Ecuador, and particularly family life and behaviour and problems. She´d confirm some of the views about family life that UBECI tries to address. She originally come out here in ´88, also had some suggestions of places to go. Will meet her again in a couple of weeks.
Unlike Sarah as a primary teacher, I don´t have the pleasure of cleaning bums, but instead many snotty noses, and in a way what is worst-- many kids in the markets with burnt faces-- burnt from the sun and the wind.
The process at the market school is when the kids arrive they first wash hands & face then sometimes one of the Ecuadorian organisers puts cream on their faces.
I am learning some nursery rhymes-- one is like "I´m a little teapot. " another is to the air of Frere Jacques
You would all love the dancing. Salsa.. meringe? and many others --can´t remember names- - and yes i have at least two left feet-- only one of the dances could i make any fist of.. There is a dance class on Tuesdays in the gym attached to the house, which starts and finishes with warm up/down exercises. The son of the house I am in went to Indiana university two weeks ago with a local dance troupe doing Ecuadorian & Bolivian dances at some congress. The cost of the dance class is $1 for the hour!!

My house and the family

My owners and hosts are Rosa and Roberto.

If you feel like sending a post card --this is the address, takes about 10 days for one to arrive--but the kids might enjoy them! and the stamps!.

Rosi Asimbaya yRoberto Basantes
Ricardo Jaramillo S8-129 y Pasaje Solomớn Cardenas
Ciudadela Santa Ana, Quito
Tel: 593 (0)2 2647775 Mobile 098 747319 (Rosi)



The family is a loving, interested, educated family. Rosi, Roberto & two sons. Rosi provides a cooked breakfast, and a very big lunch and in the evening a light supper of coffee/tea/juice and some form of bread, perhaps with fruit. Rosi & Roberto work very hard, they manufacture electric showerheads with an inbuilt water heater on the premises. The manufacturing process includes using molten aluminum poured into moulds. This part of the operation takes place beside the washing machine and involves a barrel, some sand, a gas cylinder, a match, temperatures of 700 degrees, jeans, trainers and a tee shirt. Repeat (suspend all standards etc) The internal electrical parts are assembled in the living room by Rosi, further unseen manufacturing operations take place upstairs in Pilar’s living quarters with Pilar’s help. Pilar is Roberto’s sister. The word sister here may mean step sister because of distinctly different the skin tones. Pilar’s other job is selling jugo (real fruit juice) in the mornings in the local park. The living accommodation has other unique features for example the shower can provide hot water from a locally manufactured showerhead and strangely the power source is external as the wiring comes in through the window. The manner in which it is connected to the showerhead …… suspend all etc.

the house_____I have not figured out the topography of the building yet!

The Homework Club- another of IBECI 's (the charity) endeavours...

St Isabel School is about one hour by bus from Villaflora (Quito) where I live. I come out here on Tuesday and Friday mornings and every afternoon except some Mondays. St Isabel is first a separate barrio (district-townland) outside Quito. One of the good things about it is that it is out in the country, well part of the ribbon development, but when you get to the school it is off the main road and sometimes there is even silence !!The school operates Tuesday and Friday 0900 to 1100 and every afternoon 1400 to 1630. Children from about 5yrs to about 12 / 13 come here either before school (0900 to 1100) or after for help with their homework.
The school takes place in a partially completed house,which could be nice if it were finished no doors, except external, no plaster, no internal finishing of any kind. the loo is in place, but privacy is provided by a curtain on a piece of string.
The desks are fixed , child sized desks with desk and chair integrated,(reminds me of old desks which some of us will remember from when we were in school) so they are difficult for an adult to sit on.
Most of the homework seems to be either arithmetic, or, for even quite old children, handwriting. I sometimes am assigned to teach English. the environment is not conducive to good teaching , with 10 kids in the "front room" half of whom are doing maths, others are talking & I am trying to get across the subtleties of "I am" vs "I'm" When i am here for the full Day have a lot of time to fill between 1100 and 1400--- hence this e mail.

Am meeting Eileen , the nun, from ?? Tipp? Cork? somewhere south -at any rate! on Sat morning.
Love to all, Joe.

Photos from Atacame Beach resort

Main street Atacama

Executive Transport
Stressed out in Atacama

From Left Brendan Mc Inerney , a true blue Aussi traveller, Danielle , a volunteer from London, Me, Jessi a school counsellor and volunteer from LA. Note we are drinkin g water

The local icons are Che and Fidel

Eat on the street

Silence

Lovely weather this morning. Most mornings are bright and sunny and it clouds up a bit in the afternoons evenings. What I miss is silence! Everywhere, music, traffic people, tv, street vendors, even in the nearby park still noise, as for Atacame, the beach resort , it achieved the reserved sin of noise.

Sept 1st Quito--only 2 days here

1 Sept 2009
Outside someone is playing local flute, sounds a bit like a tin whistle, a simple tune, this I the first time I heard it, what I usually hear is the devil’s music from the nearby gym which opens at 0600. At the moment I am sitting in bed at 10 pm typing on Kathleen Mary Hall’s PC. She &other volunteers have gone to Mariscal Sucre, otherwise known as gringolandia, to dance and drink the night away.
Mariscal is part of the newtown in the north of Quito, where all the gringos and gringo companies flock because they need the trappings of modernity. Just below it is oldtown which has the trappings of the Spanish heritage , the government, the churches. Above it all La Virgen reigns down her blessings from the hill known as El Panecillo (the little bread loaf). From the south of El Panecillo all we can see is Virgen’s behind and the south has all the trappings a developing country,(suspend all standards ye who enter here) unregulated building, horrendous footpaths, buses billowing black smoke giving world class pollution, street traders in traditional/quasi traditional costume mostly selling food designed to gives the gringos the galloping bog rots, umpteen phone shops and lots of security personnel.
The family with whom I am staying is a loving, interested, educated family. Rosi, Roberto & two sons. Rosi provides a cooked breakfast, and a very big lunch and in the evening a light supper of coffee/tea/juice and some form of bread, perhaps with fruit. Rosi & Roberto work very hard, they manufacture electric showerheads with an inbuilt water heater on the premises. The manufacturing process includes using molten aluminum poured into moulds. This part of the operation takes place beside the washing machine and involves a barrel, some sand, a gas cylinder, a match, temperatures of 700 degrees, jeans, trainers and a tee shirt. Repeat (suspend all standards etc) The internal electrical parts are assembled in the living room by Rosi, further unseen manufacturing operations take place upstairs in Pilar’s living quarters with Pilar’s help. Pilar is Roberto’s sister. The word sister here may mean step sister because of distinctly different the skin tones. Pilar’s other job is selling jugo (real fruit juice) in the mornings in the local park. The living accommodation has other unique features for example the shower can provide hot water from a locally manufactured showerhead and strangely the power source is external as the wiring comes in through the window. The manner in which it is connected to the showerhead …… suspend all etc. I have not figured out the topography of the building yet
Oh my god , the buses----. There is an electric trolly-bus system which seems very organized running on dedicated roads, haven’t had the pleasure yet. The other buses----no numbering system—you must read the multiple destinations pasted to the windscreen. However to help you a gentleman hangs out the door and shouts at persons on the footpath the destinations of the bus. This is a necessary part of the process since there are no bus stops, and so you hail and board the bus at any point on its route and similarly you may alight wherever you wish. Gringos do find the system a tad trying, but at 25cents a trip what complaints can a gringo have? (Yes the word gringo is used quite a lot)
The weather--- nothing too remarkable except for the potential for sunburn/sunstroke. We are on the equator up at 2850 metres and have clear skies from early morning, so far it clouds up a bid in the pm and is somewhat chilly in the evening. I need a hat & a high factor sunblock.
The mountains yes pretty high , particularly to the east and on day I got a glimpse of a snow-capped volcano to the north.
The projects—next installment

School in the Markets with the "street kids"-my first week here.

The Markets
The theory .
The families who run the stalls are from certain social class. I am told that 80% of them are dysfunctional in one way or another, Battered wives, and every other sort of abuse , yes every other abuse. The children must work in the markets and often are not permitted to go to school because of the loss of earnings that would cause. The children are used for selling things. They get sympathy and therefore sales so why should they go to school? In their lives they only see adults as people who give orders ,& don´t listen. The role of the mother is often one of protecting their precious market space and is “muy fuerte” with other people and passes this attitude on to the kids. The father, if any, is one who abuses, or beats. The children don’t see adults in any other way.
UBECI´s idea is to give the kids time and space. To let them see adults who act in a different way— who will listen who will play who will set boundaries without being abusive . Perhaps the alternative view of adults and how they behave may rub off in the next generation . It is taking a long term view to make a small difference in some chid´s life. It is not a quick fix, can´t change the whole social system, but perhaps give a little joy.
The process
8.40 get bus to market arrive anytime from 9.30 to 10.30 depending on how far away the market is.
Set up an area, usually just outside the main market area. Big rubber mats on the ground. The kids arrive in dribs & drabs. Ages 2-10 , in total up to 25. There are two basins with water & soap.. First thing wash hands & face. Then choose colouring , or playing games, singing songs , action songs, “ learning English” . Duration 2 Hours
Role of Volunteers
There is a local leader , Danny. Mostly it is simply to sit down and let the kids come to you., and boy do they come. Within minutes you have 2,3 or more crawling over you, wanting stories read, songs sung, help with colouring.
I cant get Narcissa out of my head. 8/9 yrs old not particularly beautiful. She did not participate, just lay with her head on a a blanket or something. When I asked her name she would not say. Eventually after 15 mins came over and whispered her name in my ear and resumed her position on the ground. She was a sad girl. But obviously she got something from being there. May of the kids arrive carrying a little brother or sister on their back. 50% of kids are snotty nosed and dirty, and it takes some time to be able to ignore that .
They are not all like Narcissa mostly lively joyful kids, some are absolute stunners.
At the end of the two hours the volunteers deliver the children back to their mother´s stall. , so you end up being lead by 4 5yr olds around the market . They know exactly where the mother is, the volunteer is lost. The parents react in different ways to the return of the children,, mostly all smiles and thanks, some sullen giving a attitude of resentment. But whatever happens either in the 2 hours or later you just have to accept it .

Then clear up get bus back and back in Quito by about 12.30 or maybe later . Lunch and ready for Spanish lesson at 1400. Timetable will be different later, because there is another enterprise w hich is a “homework club” Haven´t been there yet. And yes you do need a shower afterwards and pray you have not picked up anything else!!

Next will tell you about weekend in Mindo. (You need to get out of Quito . My only equivalent experience is that it is across between Bangkok and Tunis city, takes a while to get into its way of working.

7 hours by bus to the Pacific Coast

Went to Atacama Saturday´/ Sunday returned Monday.
It is a beach resort. 7 hour journey by bus from Quito. Slight trauma for one of volunteers night before departure, which caused her not to come. In taxi with son of the house-- dispute over taxi fare-- She got out-- son of the house driven away taken out of taxi beaten up and robbed-- next day both spent day going to various police stations--
However arrived Atacama 4.00 pm Swam in Pacific Ocean for first time. . Town full for weekend Sat Night. Town full of Put- Puts (motorbike with cabin for passengers), and potholes , which if you drove into one, you would lose a wheel and probably your suspension.
Hostel described in guide book as looking like a pile of driftwood, well yes and inside was quite basic wit showers "natural" ie no hot water--bunk beds-- football continually on the television, and as the Ecuadorian League has just started , big crowd gathered to watch, watching requires at least one bottle of rum . The Ecuadorians either drink or do not drink, but when they drink they drink a lot.
As it was Sat night bars open toll 4.00 complete with the devil´s music, Ecuadorian style,. In bed circa 12.00 but music from across the street made it impossible to sleep., When it eventually died down the room next door started their Karaoke machine and had a karaoke competition for two hours, By 6.00 things got quiet , except for the rooster in the backyard.

Sunday was families on beach, 99.9% Ecuadorian, the richer ones arriving in their 4x4´s, most by bus & put-put. Sun evening v quiet . but always the fears that go along with being the 0.1% gringo, and therefore rich and good target
Journey back long & boring, first through coastal jungle plains, then gradually up to cloud forest level with much rain. I expected to arrive in to Quito newtown, but in fact arrived into Quito south, very south, into a beautiful, well constructed and organised bus station where I eventually figured out hoe to get to Villa Flora, my local trolley stop.

Am now out in St Isabel barrio where there is as school, both pre-school and after school "clubs", some start@ 7.00 others start @14.00. Currently on Lunch break----11.00 to 14.00
a lot of time to fill in the middle of nowhere. an hours busride from Quito.

Mindo

Mindo

Up 6.30 Sat 4^th Sep 09. Met other volunteer at organisation’s office (the air is clear and breathable at this time of the morning, but come 09.00 you need a mask ) 15 min bus ride to another bus station, then Metro Bus to another interprovincial & international bus station. (the Metro bus runs in dedicated bus streets) Journey of almost an hour past airport in north of city.

In bus station booked tickets for 9.20 bus to Mindo. Bus on time. Took 45 min to get out of Quito into the countryside. Passed Mitad del Mondo (equator site, monument and tourist traps where equator first marked) and a nice quarry which gave a cloud of dust in the air for about 2 miles , till we got over a pass and eventually into forested area. It was one non-stop set of S bends which did not deter other drivers from passing. Up hill and down dale we hit Mindo @ 11.10.

Mindo is one street about 350 meters long with a plaza at the end. First find Casa Cecelia (x Lonely Planet). 250 mts off main street up dirt track. Cecilia was delighted to see us. The notice inside the door required us to take off our shoes upon entering. House and flooring of local hardwood, mahogany or some such. Floors kind of polished , makes sense to go around in stocking feet. Room for 4 upstairs through a landing area with two hammocks, no walls everything open to elements, but they are 35/37 degrees & v humid. Bedroom also open with mosquito nets. The door tied with a chord, to prevent intruders, and access also afforded by the trapdoor leading back down to reception. In the garden humming bird feeders in constant use and El Rio Mindo running through property.

Lunch in local Mexican then went canopy zipping. Canopy zipping was 1.5 km outside town uphill in heat & humidity. Canopy zipping is travelling through and over the canopy of the forest in a harness which runs on a hawser secured to rocks and in some cases to trees. Over a period of about 2 hours you have 12 separate runs travelling about 3.5 km in all looking down on the canopy. The more adventurous participants did some of the runs upside down & other unspeakable poses. I simply hung on, but wasn’t really scared. Two people had to give up --- altitude exercise & motion made them sick. What made me sick was my own smell hot sweaty and sticky, I was not alone, everyone’s sweat glands were working overtime.

A post zipping beer in the town watching Ecuador v Columbia in a World Cup qualifier…… and next thing Ecuador score----- “Whoopee” I shout – to be greeted with stony silence all round.----The team wearing yellow scored Ecuador’s colours – unfortunately both teams wear very similar colours and Columbia, being the home team , were wearing yellow—Ecuador were wearing navy blue that day.

After the match the fiesta del Virgen de Quito commenced. First Mass—this required that all the seating in church be brought out onto the street, which duly happened over an hour. Mass took place with the altar at the door of the church and much clapping and singing under the cross of blue neon lights above the church.

We ate in the designed –for –gringo restaurant after which we joined the dancing & music near the plaza. The festivities were enlivened by what I was assured was vino. This liquid was served in used plastic bottles. The camerera took a ladle full of boiling liquid from the pot on her stove and poured it into the bottle. The boiling liquid consisted of a syrup with pineapple and other materials. I believe the plastic bottles were pre-charged with some form of local grappa, potin or other hooch. It was the nose that gave it away. Three quarters of the bottle of witches brew was donated to the shrubbery in the plaza. The music was everything you would expect. Even across the bridge at the other end of town you had to shout to be heard.

I retired early, 11.30, and slept soundly . At about 5.00 awoke with an astounding headache. I attribute it mainly to the exercise at altitude,but the tablespoon of brew didn’t help. Sunday morning after a fantastic breakfast from Cecelia, eaten by the river with the humming birds hovering, booked horse riding through the forest for 11.30. Come the time we are asked to postpone until 2.00. We agree and hang around, have lunch in one of the many half finished buildings. About 1.00 we notice a lot of activity with horses, including one rider who has his horse fall on his side, the rider lies between the horse’s legs and is given a beer while lying prone. The horse arises another person runs from behind and jumps into the saddle then the original rider runs from behind and jumps on behind the saddle facing backwards, all to thunderous applause.

(For the benefit of Mr Kite there will be a show tonight in Mindolene. Here you can expect only the surreal – At one of Quito’s major intersections a clown stands in the traffic juggling flaming torches. We live such boring lives in Europe).

Come 2.00 we are told that all the horses are engaged in the fiesta activities. The current fiesta activity is :

· Rope across street at the height of horse rider’s head

· Attached to rope are ribbons with a small ring on end

· Horse rider has a biro sized stick with which must pick a ribbon from the rope.

· Rider gallops 50 meters on street, downhill, attempts to pick ring with stick

· Rider stops horse 15 meters afret rope

Since the horses are engaged we are given the option of participating in the equine games. The decision to opt to walk to the nearby cascade was not difficult.

Bus at 6.00 pm. We got back to Quito, tired but happy.

Will describe who “we” are next time.

Winter Ecuador

Winter hast startred
Heavy rain this Pm. Had to buy a jacket, however golf gear came in handy
Went to Toros del Pueblo in Tambillo
see pics

14 Sept
5.30 pm Just finished Spanish lesson . Reflexives
Just let me know if you can read this and it is working ok
Joe